Istanbul : Weekend around Geneva : Paris and Nîmes : Barcelona and Cádiz : Seville : Granada : Córdoba : Mérida and Cáceres : Salamanca, Avila & Segovia: Art in Paris : Art in Spain

Madrid

Although my train from Salamanca arrived in Madrid around 8pm, it took me two hours to get to my hotel, partly because I forgot that the long distance train ticket covers the trip between urban stations too. I paid to use the underground which was slower, instead of using the free regional train to Atocha. Ten is not late by Madrid standards and there were still plenty of people about, but I was tired and pleased to get settled. I had chosen a hotel in the Atocha district close to the main art museums, as my main focus in Madrid was to visit all 3. (Museo del Prado, Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía and Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza).

Centro de Arte Reina Sofía

Next morning I set off to the Reina Sofía well before it opened at 10 am (no museums in Spain open before 10am) I was planning to buy one of the tickets giving access to the 3 museums, but found to my delight that as a senior I had free access to this one. Spain is very generous in its reduced charges for seniors. The Reina Sofía has a collection covering the first half of the 20th century and its most famous painting is Picasso’s Guernica. I thoroughly enjoyed this museum and found it fascinating to see how an artist’s style develops. Early paintings seldom resemble later more famous works.

Museo del Prado

After several hours I took a lunch break and set off for the Prado. This museum adjoins gardens and the walk up is shaded and attractive. The Prado is one of the great art museums of the world and the collection is extensive, but it does not include any modern paintings. Unfortunately they do not allow any photography, which I feel is a pity as one cannot easily recall and later view the paintings one really liked. I was somewhat overwhelmed by it all. I managed to see some of my favourite artists and most of the famous paintings there, but after about 3 hours I was saturated and headed outside to explore the nearby park. See the page about Art in Spain for more details

Parque del Retiro

The extensive Parque del Retiro was once a Royal Park but has been open to the public since the nineteenth century. In the centre is a large boating lake. I was happy just to stroll around and set off down one of the long shady paths to find my way home. Hopping about was a magpie. Although they have a bad reputation, it is a handsome bird. Near the edge of the park, I found an attractive water feature, a stream disappearing into the distance. Exiting the park I found a street of bookstalls, but assuming the books were all in Spanish, I did not linger.

Plaza Mayor and Palacio Real

The next day I took a bus trip to Avila and Segovia, but on my last day in Madrid, I set off early to find the Plaza Mayor en route to the Royal palace (Palacio Real). I remembered the Plaza Mayor as a very handsome square from my visit to Madrid 50 years ago. This time I was disappointed as it was also cluttered with temporary structures like the Plaza Mayor in Salamanca and hardly worth photographing. Madrid does have some very grand buildings and plazas which I passed in my walks.

I really enjoyed my visit to the Palacio Real. This was built in the 1700’s on the site of the old Moorish alcázar which had been adapted over the years and later burnt down. The Palacio Real was the home of the Spanish royal family until the 1930’s. The rooms open to the public are exceptionally grand. I especially loved the chandeliers. The Gasparini room decorated for Charles 111, and the bathroom, which is partially obscured, were my favourites, but it is all pretty mind blowing. There are also 2 nice Goya portraits. I cannot help wondering what it must be like to live in such richly decorated spaces.

Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza

After visiting the palace, I took the metro to visit my third art gallery, the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza. This is regarded as one of, if not the most important, privately assembled art collections in the world. Paintings date from the 13th until well into the twentieth century and it contains over 1,000 items. I took my time and viewed the whole space. The collection assembled by Carmen Thyssen, the wife of one of the collectors is shown separately. It contains many Impressionist paintings.

It was a treat to see such a range of paintings in one place, but rather difficult to absorb so many in one visit. I so envy people who live near great art museums and can make frequent, leisurely visits.

I found the museum a bit awkward to get around as there only seems to be one entry and exit to each floor and no means of crossing from one side to another (Would not like to be caught there if there were a fire).

I particularly like the temporary exhibition they had on paintings associated with Proust. It included 2 remarkable Rembrandt self-portraits.

Almost missed the train

After this visit, I rushed back to my hotel to get my backpack and headed down to the station to catch my train to Valencia. It is fortunate that I was early because when I got to Atocha station, I discovered that my train was actually leaving from the station I arrived at, and that I would have to take the regional train to get there. This trip was included in my fare, but it was touch and go to get there in time.

Valencia

Regrettably I didn’t see much of the scenery on my trip from Madrid to Valencia as I was frantically trying to complete the long and poorly designed form sent to me by the Hotel Alicante by Moontels where I was staying in Valencia. I had to do this before I was sent a 6 digit access code which I had to use 3 times every time to access my bedroom (at the street door, the floor door and at my bedroom door). I far prefer old fashioned keys and a reception desk. Even a lockbox with keys, such as I had a Salamanca is preferable.

Stations, grand buildings and late nights

On arriving in Valencia, I had a good look at the old railway station (Estació del Nord) which is famous for its decorative finishes. The hotel was not far away and situated near a large plaza surrounded by grand buildings. It seemed that builders of the time competed to design the most striking rooftop feature.

This part of Valencia had a happy, prosperous holiday feel to it and people thronged the plaza and streets eating ice cream or sitting at the outdoor restaurants.

I was meeting up with family again for this my last weekend in Spain and we struggled to find a restaurant that was not fully booked at 9.30pm. In Spain everything happens so late. Maybe it is because they are at the very western edge of their time zone, and the sun sets late. It is not the place for early birds!

A busy morning in Valencia.

The next morning I paid a quick visit to the National Ceramics Museum which is situated in an old house with exquisite exterior decorations. I was in too much of a hurry to do justice to the collection, but did see some lovely tiles and lustreware.

After this I rushed off to join the family at the Central Market, which is housed in a lovely art nouveau iron framed structure. It was crowded with tourists. I was wanting to taste horchata made from chuffa nuts and a speciality of this area, but we could only find a sweetened version. (I later found an unsweetened version at the station) It tastes slightly like coconut milk and I could become addicted if I lived in Valencia.

Having survived the market crowds, we went to find La Lonja, a gothic hall described as one of Valencia’s finest buildings, but the queue to access was so long, we gave up and just admired the rather austere exterior.

Then we headed off the beaten track to visit a small modern art gallery, have some lunch and see the botanical garden. Away from the centre of town, the streets were far less crowded, and a little run down in places. Somewhere along the way we passed one of the old city gateways.

Jardines del Rio Turia and Museo del Bellas Artes

After our visit to the botanical garden we started a long walk along the Jardines del Rio Turia. This is a river bed that has been turned into a 10km stretch of gardens, playground and sports fields.

Halfway along we stopped to visit the Museo del Bellas Artes. I did not give it the attention it deserved, but did manage to spot a striking Sandro Botticelli portrait. I later discovered that this is the only portrait by this artist in Spain and is on loan to the museum.

Centre for Arts and Science

After the museum I wandered on alone down the long garden, under many bridges and passed a festival and children’s playgrounds. I discovered a forest of silk floss trees , with green swollen trunks studded with thorns. They have lovely pink flowers in autumn. I also admired some modern triangular shaped flats or office blocks on the bank.

Eventually I arrived at the striking Centre for Arts and Science (Cuitat de les arts I de les Ciències). Most of these futurist, white buildings surrounded by blue pools were designed by the Valencian architect Santiago Calatrava. I did not venture into them but sat on the lawn nearby admiring them and also wondering how successful they were. Are they fit for purpose? Do people enjoy using them and find them friendly spaces? I have always enjoyed striking buildings, but as I get older, and mindful of the resources of our planet, I can no longer judge a building just by its appearance.

Paella

It was fitting for my last night in Spain, I should have paella. Valencia is where this dish originated. We had black paella which gets its colour from cuttlefish or squid ink. The rice is firm and contrasts with the other seafood in the dish. The ink enhances the salty seafood flavour. The colour is not immediately appealing and it was with some trepidation that I took my first mouthful, but it tasted good!

Last morning in Valencia

The next morning I dashed off to find the Mercat de Colón which is also housed in an old iron framed building, but it is not as grand as the central market and is full of clothes shops and restaurants.

I then made my way to the cathedral, passing stalls selling pottery in the nearby plaza. There was a service taking place in the cathedral so one could not explore. We were flying to Geneva in the early afternoon, so I spent the remaining time, just wandering about enjoying the sights of Valencia and trying to hunt down unsweetened horchata, which I finally found at the station.

Valencia is a lovely city to visit with spacious plazas, plenty of restaurants and multiple attractions. I imagine it must be a nice place to live. We did not get to the beach which is close by. Maybe next time…