Istanbul : Weekend around Geneva : Paris and Nîmes : Barcelona and Cádiz : Seville : Granada : Mérida and Cáceres : Salamanca, Avila & Segovia : Madrid & Valencia : Art in Paris : Art in Spain
Sadly I only had half a day in Córdoba. I have long wanted to see the great mosque with its striped arches, the Mezquita and had booked a ticket for 2pm. As soon as I arrived in town from Granada, I hurried to my hotel, which was only about 15 mins from the bus station, to drop my luggage before dashing out to find it. I am not the best user of Google maps, and it took some help from friendly strangers before I found it in the maze of small streets. I then had to retrieve the online ticket sent to me. Getting older I am finding the constant changes in technology challenging. However, eventually I was in.
The Mezquita
My initial feeling was one of disappointment. The arches seemed duller than I expected. However, their repetition and the size of the place soon impressed as did what is regarded as the mihrab. The cathedral, although impressive, plonked in the middle and the chapels closing every exit were incongruous. I wish I could have seen it as originally planned, opened up to the courtyard; a mysterious forest of arches. The Mezquita was built is 783, with later additions and replaced an original mosque and church on the site. It is much older and of a different style to the mosques I have seen in Istanbul.
River, Alcázar and surrounds
After visiting the Mezquita, I made my way down to the river so see the Roman bridge and a derelict waterwheel. Then I returned to see the Alcázar and its gardens. The gardens were lovely, but once again some large pools were empty, and there are few things sadder than a water feature without water. It was great to see two SA stalwarts (a pink pelargonium and vygie) making a splash against a wall.
I wandered about the narrow streets of the Jewish quarter, hoping to find the synagogue, but it was closed. Nearby I found the small Chapel of San Bartholomé, which is regarded as a jewel in the Mudéjar style. It was an attractive small space with lovely tiles.
Courtyards
The festival of the courtyards was taking place in Córdoba. This is when people open their courtyard gardens for everyone to admire. Admission is free and there must be about 60 courtyards to visit arranged in about 6 routes about town. They are open from 11am-2pm and then again for 6pm until 10pm.
I hurried off across town to visit the Palacio de Viana which has 12 courtyards and is open year round. It was not taking part in the festival and charged an entry fee. I was not blown away by their courtyards and realised how challenging it is to keep gardens looking good at all times.
I then started visiting the private courtyards furthest away. They were charming and mostly jam packed with plants. SA pelargonium hybrids were stars of the show, often grown in bright blue pots. Two courtyards still had their original wells.
After seeing about 5 courtyards I encountered long queues forming to visit what are essentially small spaces. I decided to opt out and go back to the other end of town near the Mezquita where there were lots of courtyards open. I was too tired to walk there and there was some confusion about which buses to catch there and back to the hotel. Dispirited I opted out and instead went to find supper, which was delicious artichokes with ham.
I wish I could have spent longer in Córdoba, but the trains out the next day were all booked, except for one very early. Here again Google maps let me down. Having put in Train Station Córdoba, I was led far astray. Fortunately thanks to directions from locals, I caught my train. (The train station was near the bus station and close to my hotel). I was on my way to Mérida in Extremadura
Read about Mérida or click an image to open the gallery.
2025 Trip: Córdoba Gallery
