Two days later on 4 Aug. 2021, P & I set off on the first leg of our trip – destination Cradock. We left PE around 9am, planning to be in Cradock by lunch, but were seduced by memories of the excellent pies at the farmstall as we passed the Nanaga /Ncanara interchange. A quick pit stop for pies and coffee and a punnet of small delicious avocados for future picnic lunches, and we were on our way again. Our route took is up the N10, over the scenic Olifantskop pass and past Cookhouse to Cradock, where we arrived just before 2pm. After checking in at the affordable Hoekhuis guesthouse, we set off to explore the town and to find Egg Rock.
Cradock and Egg Rock.
I had never been to Cradock before and was keen to see the church which was inspired by St Martin’s in the Field in London. It is a lovely church, and I very much regret not taking any photos. Sadly it was not open, and planning to come back the next morning, we set off to find Egg Rock which we knew was out of town. After travelling several kms along the incorrect road, erroneously guided by Google’s helpful lady, we were correctly directed by the guards at the Cradock hot spring. We bumped along several kms of farm road, negotiating several farm gates and finally arrived at a lovely koppie covered with big dolerite boulders, one of which is the precariously balanced Egg Rock. The warm, late afternoon light inspired us to take lots of photos, and so began one of the themes of the trip, the beauty of Karoo rocks and koppies.
Returning to Cradock we did a quick drive around town and along Bree Street, where the late Prof Guy Butler spent his early years. The town is full of charming old homes, but many look neglected and sadly one feels times are tough for the inhabitants. Supper was an excellent steak at a local steakhouse and so to bed for an early night.
Day 2: Tafelberg Hall and Graaff Reinet
We set off again early the next morning, heading up the N10 towards Middelburg. The plan was to exit at Conway and make our way along the farm roads to explore the area near Tafelberg Hall. Many years ago whilst trying to find this farm, I had seen a house with an unusual cupola and I was keen to find it again. On the way we saw several buildings of finely dressed sandstone. We also spied what we thought was a church steeple through the trees, but it turned out to be a farmhouse built in the style of a feather palace and reputed to have cost as much as the farm itself! We were lucky to meet the owner of Tafelberg Hall, who came driving by in his bakkie and who invited us to visit the farm to take some photos of the farmstead. Designed by Herbert Baker for a mining magnate at the beginning of the 20th century, this farmstead has an array of beautifully built sandstone buildings and walls. The farm is nestled below the aptly named Tafelberg, another of the spectacular Karoo mesas.
After this visit we sped up the N10 and then down the N9, towards Graaff Reinet, stopping for a picnic lunch en route. We were very lucky with the weather which was sunny for most of the trip. The scenic Lootsburg Pass on the N9 had been closed a few weeks previously due to snowfalls and was to be closed again a week later.
Graaff Reinet and Valley of Desolation
After checking in with our friendly hostess at Thyme & Again, we set off to visit the Valley of Desolation in the Cambedoo National Park on the outskirts of town. Like all the Karoo on our trip, the area was very dry, but the town dam had some water. I was surprised as we starting climbing up the mountain to reach the valley. It is situated on the crown of the mountain and is truly spectacular and well worth a visit. As P explains, dolerite columns stretch up to the sky, a result of dolerite’s rectangular joint system created during cooling of the intrusive magma – the columns remaining due to the wider joint spacing. The views of Spandau Kop and the surrounding countryside are amazing. Stop at the toposcope on the way up for the best view over the town spread out below. The plains of Camdeboo, celebrated by the author Eve Palmer, spread out in the distance. This valley is a natural cathedral, a place to worship Karoo rocks and natural landscape. On our way back to town we were lucky to see some eland in the Park.
Back in town we enjoyed a very tasty dinner of lamb loin chops, deliciously thick and succulent -another Karoo speciality, at a local restaurant, before settling in for the night. Next morning after a delicious breakfast provided by our hostess, we set off to see a bit of the town and visit the Obesa nursery. Graaff Reinet looks to be thriving. The houses are well kept and the streets clean. Full of historical buildings and with a magnificent church, we didn’t have time to do justice to all its attractions. Sadly the nursery did not live up to expectations, but the fat cacti outside and the colourful houses made for a scenic stop. Then it was time to hit the road.
Read About Days 3 & 4 of our Great Karoo Adventure
Cradock & Graaff Reinet Gallery
