On our third day we were planning to do a fair distance to see some gong rocks near Nelspoort that we had read about. P studied geology and we were both fascinated by the idea of rocks which ring different notes and were used by the first people of the Karoo to make music for their dances and rituals. Sometimes called Bushmen pianos, these are dolerite boulders balanced on others and sometimes cleaved. There could well be others which have not been discovered, as the Karoo has many koppies covered with dolerite boulders, but there is another well-known one of a farm near Vosburg, which we decided was just too far away. Gong rocks are usually surrounded by stones containing carvings signifying a site of ritual or importance to early people.
Nelspoort
From Graaff Reinet we travelled along the R63 to Murraysburg, a small settlement with an attractrive church and several old houses. Here we set off along a series of well-maintained dirt roads to Nelspoort, passing almost no traffic. To see the site, one needs to contact the local school principal who will arrange a guide. We spent a very informative 2 hours or more climbing the koppie to the gong rocks and seeing various engravings and SA war graves near the station.
We then sped off up the N1 heading for Richmond, our stop for the night. We stopped briefly at a padstal near Nelspoort for a welcome coffee and to view one of the many forts dating from the SA War which guarded the rail bridges. This one is well maintained.
Richmond
We arrived in Richmond just in time to buy a delicious venison pie and slice of cheese cake for our supper from the local coffeeshop, filled with a selection of delicious home baked wares. Then we found our Be blessed accommodation booked through Lekkerslaap and settled in for a comfy night. With the clock in the church tower ringing the hours, we really felt away from city life.
The next morning we spent a short time exploring Richmond, though sadly the bookshop was closed. This little town has an annual book festival and we were hoping to have several bookshops to browse through. I was enticed into a bric a brac shop which had an interesting collection of old items, but fortunately P dragged me away before I succumbed. Richmond looked empty and sad, as though Covid has dealt it quite a blow, but it is full for nice old houses and an attractive municipal building.
Deelfontein
Both P and I were keen to visit Deelfontein, which was the site of a large Imperial Yeomanry tented hospital during the SA War. There is a well-kept military graveyard close by and the ruins of what must have been a very attractive hotel, constructed for the visitors. This is one of those strange desolate places which has a magic of its own. It is beside a railway siding of the same name. The only way to reach it is along dirt roads. After spending an hour or 2 exploring the site, P and I were picnicking in the shade a lone pepper tree when a local farmer drove up to see what we were doing. We had not spotted the solar powered camera. It seems that stock theft is so rife that farmers now have cameras erected on many roads to monitor vehicles entering the area. This farmer was very helpful regarding the best route to take to Victoria West, and having finished our lunch and seen the graveyard, we set off.
Disaster
These roads were not of the best and after passing Merriman with its SA War fort in the distance and sadly trashed railway buildings, we joined the dirt road linking Richmond with Victoria West via Brakpoort. After a few kms it was obvious that disaster had struck and we had a puncture.
It was 3pm and the afternoon was still long. Out came the wheel spanner, the jack and the manual. I was very proud of being able to loosen the wheel nuts, but then came the real challenge. The spare wheel was fixed under the rear of the bakkie and to prevent it being stolen, I had had the recommended security device fitted. This consisted of a pipe to cover the nut which had to be loosened to release the carriage containing the spare. I was proud I had not mislaid the key to insert into the pipe. This we duly did, but no way was it going to come off to allow us access to the nut despite twisting, bashing and pulling. On this isolated road no one came by to help.
Fortunately we had a cell phone signal and had to phone my Momentum roadside assistance for help, the Nissan helpline being totally unable to advise on any technical matters. Unfortunately the closest support was over 250 kms away in Beaufort West, and after they established that the local mechanic was in hospital with Covid, they sent a lowbed to load us up. All we could do was wait and P set off up the hill we had passed and found the lost hubcap. We sat by the road enjoying the spectacular sunset and Karoo stars and started anxiously watching for the truck lights. Eventually around 8pm it arrived and we were loaded up and taken very slowly over a very corrugated road to Victoria West where the mechanic also struggled to release the security device. They finally succeeded, our tyre was changed, we were off loaded around 10pm and could hurry off to the PopHuis where we spent the night. We were meant to be sleeping at Melton Wold, but it was over 40kms away and as they closed their gates at 9pm, they had very kindly arranged alternative accommodation in Victoria West for us. As we sat having a midnight picnic supper, we were both grateful for kindness of all concerned and ready for our beds.
Read about Days 5, 6 & 7of our Great Karoo Adventure
Nelspoort, Richmond & Deelfontein Gallery
