Istanbul : Prague : Vienna : Trieste & Milan : Stresa : Switzerland : Art
I had to sprint to catch the train to Stresa and collapsed into a seat huffing and puffing. The journey from Milan took just over an hour. The first part not very exciting but once we got into the countryside and then skirting Lake Maggiore, it was lovely.
Stresa is a well-known holiday destination about a third of the way up the west coast of Lago Maggiore. Several famous gardens can be reached from here and this is why I was visiting. After dropping my bag at Hotel Montoc, which was just up the hill from the station, I set off down the hill again to the lake shore. At the bottom of the street I was saddened to see 3 beautiful old villas in dire need of restoration. These were not the only gracious old homes I saw falling down around the lake. I assume either no one can afford to buy and restore them, or more likely developers own them and are waiting till they fall down and they can then demolish and build monstrous blocks of flats.
I wandered along the lake shore admiring the fine old hotels and a war memorial before finding the ferry station to buy a ticket to the first of the gardens I wanted to visit, Villa Taranto. This is across a bay and I was delighted that there was a ferry to it. The rain held off and the journey was a treat. I sat out on deck and enjoyed the beautiful scenery. The hillside has some magnificent old homes, some are small castles. After several stops including Isola Bella, Isola Madre and Pallanza, we passed a headland and came to the Villa Taranto stop, which is very close to the entrance to the garden.
Villa Taranto
Villa Taranto garden is one I have long wanted to see and it did not disappoint. Developed by Scotsman Neil McEacharn in the first half of the 20th century, this garden is renown for its collection of unusual plants, mainly trees. It was great to see the garden so well maintained and the rare plants labelled. I followed the route suggested on their map and spent a very happy 2 hours there; first seeing all the maples and rhododendrons below then climbing the hill, passing formal gardens and a conservatory and water garden with early flowering waterlilies. The garden contains a memorial to Neil McEacharn as well as his mausoleum/small chapel. There are also lovely views over the lake from the top of the garden. The only jarring note was the ugly fake wood orange benches. Surely Italians could not have designed such things?
Villa Pallavicino
As my ticket did not allow other stops, I returned to Stresa by ferry and set off to visit the garden of the Villa Pallavicino. This is an easy walk along the road on the lake shore and the views are lovely. The garden itself is on a hillside and involves some steep climbing. It has an educational petting zoo, with goats and chickens and other farm animals. It also has a formal garden and tearoom at the top of the hill and various walks, waterfalls on the streams and view points over the lake. It is a pretty place to spend an afternoon. The villa itself was closed and not accessible.
I headed back into Stresa and explored the town itself in search of gelato. There were several outlets to choose from and ice cream in hand, I set off back up the hill to my hotel. Stresa obviously attracted wealthy citizens and many of the homes reflect this. I rather fell for one with its own turret, inaccessible in a back street. My hotel had its own restaurant and I enjoyed a very nice fish dish for supper served with an array of vegetables.
Isola Bella
After breakfast the next morning, I headed back to the ferry station and armed with combination ticket for Isola Bella and Villa Madre gardens, as well as a ferry ticket which allowed multiple stops, I set off.
First stop was Isola Bella, the closest island to Stresa. I have long wanted to visit its unique garden. Tantalizing glimpses of its array of statues can be had from the shore and while passing by boat. This island is still owned by the Borromeo family who built the palace and the gardens. Before one can visit the gardens, one follows a route through the palace which was packed with fellow tourists. It has some grand spaces; rooms of family portraits and other paintings, beautiful Venetian chandeliers and an extensive grotto in the basement as well as a large hallway with beautiful tapestries leading to the garden.
This was my goal and it did not disappoint. One climbs a set of steps up from a courtyard and an amazing bank of statues is revealed at the other end of the lawn. It is pure theatre! I had never seen anything like it before and I loved it! This bank of statues is the back end of a garden composed of 4 flowered terraces, all with stunning views over the lake. Some of the terraces were closed, but one had a fabulous view of the knot garden down below and the lake beyond. Off to one side was more of the garden with formal beds and some unusual conifers. One keeps getting a glimpse of the statues from around the garden, especially the large unicorn rampant which is one of the symbols of the Borromeo family. Tucked away near the exit is a greenhouse/conservatory.
Isola dei Pescatore
I was most reluctant to leave the Isola Bella garden, but eventually caught the next ferry to the nearby Isola dei Pescatori (island of fishermen). This is an ideal spot to stop for lunch as the tiny island is packed with restaurants and shops. It has an intriguing layout. Along the shore where the ferry stops is a broad street with many stalls and shops. Running parallel down the centre of the island is a very narrow walkway giving access to many restaurants on the other side of the island. Their dining areas open out onto the lake shore. Joining the central narrow walkway and the broad street are several tunnels. One is spoilt for choice when it comes to places to dine, but I found somewhere to sit out in the sunshine ,enjoying the view of the lake, while enjoying a large toasted ham and cheese sandwich.
Isola Madre
After lunch I caught a ferry to the third island, Isola Madre, to visit the garden there. The landing dock is very attractively planted. This is the largest of the Borromean islands, although I am not sure if it still belongs to the family. Almost the entire island is a botanical garden and it has some unusual plants, although the labelling is poor. I was also disappointed that large areas were closed off. In the favourable climate round the lake, growth can be rampant and thickets seem to have engulfed part of the island. Nevertheless there were some lovely walkways with views of the lake with storm clouds approaching, and a staircase with flowering wisteria. This I read, is known as the Staircase of the dead as it lead to an old cemetery, no longer extant.-
The garden also has a large Cyprus cashmeriana, a beautiful grey weeping tree near the Renaissance palazzo. One can also stroll through this; not as grand as the palace on Isola Bella, but an attractive house nevertheless. The garden is also home to various colourful birds, pheasants and white peacocks and an aviary. It has a coffee shop and formal pond near the chapel which was built in 1858.
A storm broke while I was on Isola Madre and after cowering in the coffee shop for a while, I caught a ferry back to Stresa. It was most invigorating to be out on the water, brolly aloft, as we skimmed across the lake.
Visit Stresa
Back in Stresa it was time for another gelato and I went in search of some fruit and chinotto at the local supermarket. I was surprised to be charged more for the chinotto than the shelf price, but discovered it was because I had taken it from the fridge. I am not sure how universal this “cooling charge” is in Italian supermarkets.
Up the hill I went for a very tasty supper of fresh trout and veggies in the hotel dining room, before settling in for an early night. I had a long trip planned for Friday. I was to travel from Stresa to Domodossola and on to Locarno, from there across Switzerland to Basel.
I really enjoyed my time in Stresa, despite the weather being showery at times. It could have been worse. It is such a beautiful spot with endless views across the lake to mountains. It is not too big and easy to walk around. Crossing the lake in the ferries is fun. For gardeners it is a dream as it is seldom that you find so many great open gardens close together. If you get a chance to visit, do go.
Read about Weekends in Switzerland
2023 Trip- Italy – Stresa Gallery
