Homeland Travels 2026: Spas, flowers and no whales.

Mossel Bay to Cederberg   Eastern Cape    Swartberg sandwich

Warmwaterberg

Both T and I like hot water spas and winter is the time to visit them.   In July we decided to visit Warmwaterberg Spa on R62, near Barrydale.    After stopping in Barrydale for a coffee and later to peer into Ronnies famous sex shop (great if you like bras and panties hanging from the ceiling), we reached the baths just after lunch.   This spa is beautifully sited on the slopes of a hill with expansive views of the Little Karoo.

Some of the buildings on site are very old and we had a unit in what was once the sanatorium building.   Included in the unit was a deep cement bath which we could fill with the hot spa water.  We discovered that this was dangerously debilitating if one spent more than 5-10 mins in it. There are also 3 outdoor pools; a hot, one warm and a cold pool.  The spa caters for day visitors and has a restaurant and shop selling basics. 

We had a lovely relaxing time there. Being midweek, most of the visitors were pensioners like us.  The place is very still and tranquil.  Even the peacocks didn’t seem the usual rowdy kind.  We ventured on a few short walks and found what we think must be the eye of the spring.  I am always fascinated by where the water bubbles out the earth and like to track down the eye.  In most cases, as here, it has been secured behind a door or lid.

On the way home we stopped at the R62 Music Store selling CDs and succulents . There are well-organized extensive collections of both CDs, records and plants here.  We also stopped briefly at the guano caves resort near Montagu and in Montagu itself to buy some plants from the nursery there.  This is one of the old fashioned nurseries where one may be lucky enough to uncover some uncommon beauty.

IBSA weekend at Hawerland

This year the spring flower season was affected by the heavy rains in May and a relatively dry winter thereafter. Most plants flowered early.

I am a member of the Indigenous Bulb Society of South Africa (IBSA) and our annual weekend away took place in mid-August when we visited the Hawerland Farm near Graafwater.  Two of our members have been visiting this farm every month and compiling a list of the plants and it was great to have them to lead the group.

My friend M and I drove up from Ceres to the Koue Bokeveld and on to Citrusdal, stopping along the way.   We saw various plants in flower up on the Koue Bokkeveld, but noticed how dry it was around Citrusdal.  From there we took the very pretty road from the top of Piekenierskloof pass to Paleisheuvel, but did not see much growing alongside the road.  There were commercial plantings of Australian tea bush (Leptospermum). The long-lasting flowers are sold overseas.

The farm Hawerland itself was a delight and a very happy Saturday was spent by us botanising, with our bottoms in the air, as we bent down to examine and photograph the many species.  On Sunday M and I set off home, travelling to the coast and then down past Elands Bay to Velddrif.  We spotted some of the eye catching red Babiana hirsuta here.   We then shot down the R27 before taking the Darling turnoff to visit the Tinie Versveld Reserve and Waylands, both of which were looking good with early flowers.

Postberg and Yzerfontein

About 10 days later T and I travelled to see the flowers at Postberg in the West Coast National Park.  I had never visited this reserve before.  We left home early in the morning and reached the reserve at about 10.   It is a long, slow drive from the gate to the actual flower reserve which is only open for 2 months each year. Initially I was a little disappointed as various plants seemed to have flowered, but there were still lovely displays of daisies and as one climbed higher to the lookout point, interesting bulbs in flower.   What I particularly liked about the reserve were the amazing granite rocks, both down at the beach and on the peaks. We stopped for a picnic lunch at the lookout opposite Langebaan.  An amazing view and close by a wild fig tree’s roots sprawled down the rocks.  It was a sunny day too.

We spent the night in Yzerfontein, which I had never visited before. It has long sandy beaches and a nicely laid out walk along the headland together with a popular bakery and small craft beer brewery.   On the way home we stopped again at the Tinie Versveld Reserve and Waylands near Darling.  It was very interesting to see what changes there were from 10 days previously.  We also stopped at 8 Feet near Riebeeck Kastel.   This venue, with shops and restaurants, has a stunning view over the valley and it was very relaxing to sit back on the open deck admiring the vineyards, small town and distant mountains.

Hermanus and Caledon Spa

Finally in August, T and I made a flying visit to Hermanus hoping to see whales.   On the way down we stopped off in Caledon to visit the hotwater spa at the casino there.   The Caledon hot water spring was mentioned by several early travellers and the large Victorian era bath, with small changing cubicles, is still the main pool.  There are several other cascading pools of varying temperatures, but they only seat a few people.  Once again I underestimated how debilitating it can be to sit in the hot water for too long, and felt quite faint once I got to the changing room.  Drink lots of water, is all I can advise and don’t overdo it.

It is great that they allow day visitors, unlike several spas.   After our swim we had lunch in one of the restaurants at the Casino before heading down to Hermanus through the Hemel and Aarde valley with its well-known wine farms.

The weather was not great, but after checking into the historic Windsor Hotel, we went whale hunting along the cliff path .  At Gearing Point we admired the sculptures.  I especially liked the striding hare by Guy du Toit, but foolishly did not take any photos the whole weekend.  We explored the nearby shops and many restaurants and had tasty fish and chips for supper, which we shared with hungry sea gulls, while looking out for the elusive whales.

 The next morning dawned rainy and cold and after enjoying the stupendous buffet breakfast at the Windsor, we went to explore the town.  T had spent childhood holidays here, and we revisited some of the sites he remembered.   The weather did not improve.  We made a flying visit to Stanford and the Birkenhead brewery there and then returned to have lunch with a friend in Hermanus before deciding to head for home.  Sadly nary a whale was seen.   Next year maybe..

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